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Fresh from the Fast Fours Forums! These are the characters who make and break the Fast Fours Legend! If any of the following details are not correct, please email me.

Fast Forums Name:  GOD-12A

Real Name:  Mark

State of Residence:  NSW

Date of Birth / Age:  01/12/1979

Email Addy:  sprocket666@hotmail.com

Ride:  Mazda RX-3 (74), RX-4

Bio / Mods:  My current ride is a 1974 Mazda RX-3 sedan (Series 2, 12A front). The front end is totally Series 3 and original.

The body colour is the original Earth Green. The body was taken back to bare metal, re-built from the ground up and then coated in Glasurit 2-pac by GAS250 - inside and out (including the engine bay. After we stripped the paint off we discovered the car has never been in an accident and the only two panels that had any amount of rust were the bootlid and rear door. Both were replaced with, luckily enough, original earth green RX-3 items!

The engine is a race prepped 12A that has been rebuilt with new everything except the housings, end plates, rotors and eccentric shaft. When I say race prep I mean modified 3 window rotor bearings, modified shaft, modified stationary gears etc. This babys rotors are balanced over 30 times more accurate than how they came from the factory! The rotors actually weight within 1gram of each other. The block was assembled the whole lot was balanced. Actual mods to the enigne include angle cut bridge-ports, Haltech E6K fuel and ignition computer, Porcshe 650hp fuel pump which powers both fuel to the motor and future NOS jets. The engine was balanced and clearanced by the head mechanic (Alec Bell) of Rotary Power Australia after he moved back to New Zealand. It also sports a lightened, balanced and nitrided flywheel, new pressure plate, will run single stage NOS in the near future (probably 100hp thru single stage, then goto second stage 150-200hp depending in how it goes), 4 x 13B Turbo cleaned and flowed injectors, 2" gilmer drive (I reckon they look way tough!) and a 20B alternator. The exhaust is all hand made stainless and is a HPC coated tuned length mandrel bent set of extractors that collect just after the firewall. From there they run into a 3" to the first stainless steel straight thru muffler before the diff, then over the diff through 3" mandrel to piping to the bigger 18" long stainless steel straight thru muffler. There is much more mods done but I just can't remember EVERYTHING!

Driveline mods include a 4 puck ceramic button clutch with sprung centre, a Series 5 gearbox modified to move shifter forwards a tad, indestructible gearbox crossmember and 3" tailshaft. There is also a Borg Warner LSD diff with 4.11 ratio (will change to 4.77 when money tree grows a bit more) built by Bosnjak Engineering.

Wheels and brakes are 16" ROH Chicane modular wheels, front brakes will prolly end up as one of PAC Performance's Holden Commodore conversions with RX-4 booster. Rear brakes are Commodore calipers with cross drilled and slotted DBA gold series rotors.

The interior is still stock as a rock with all the hard to find original parts except the Momo steering wheel, CD player, 6x9s on parcel shelf and the older Ford Capri front seats bolstered up more and retrimmed in grey velour with light grey patterned inserts.

Everything on the car that could be polished and or chromed has been, inside and out. This includes the door moulds, twin post aerial, bumper bars etc. I love a good looking engine bay as much as the next bloke so I spent lots of hard earned cash in there. Literally everything in there is either chromed, polished, painted or stainless steel braided - right down to the clutch fork and polished and chromed clutch master / slave cylinders and brake master and booster. Theres more than a few dollars spent on just chrome so far for I hand polished and detailed the throttle bodies, bellhousing and even crank angle sensor as well at an expense to my mind. All plastic bottles in engine bay have been replaced with new items, all unused holes and tags in engine bay have been removed, welded and filed flat. Old bungy cord brake lines and fittings have been thrown away and replaced with stainless steel items so they could be polished as well.

I must give a special thanks to the following people:

  • Rotary Power Australia
  • City Performance (Alec Bell, Ezio Sanelli) for my engine, exhaust, lots of ideas and info
  • GAS250 (Andrew Khoury) for the bare metal spray job
  • HITman (Matty Leitcher) for all my injection setup and sharing tuning knowledge.
  • Motorsport Connections (Mark) for all my braided hose, connections and NOS setup ideas (good bloke for a chat too!)
  • Peppers Auto Trimmers for retrimming my front seats
  • Spectrum Auto rubber for everything rubber they had for me spanking new!
  • Superchrome for all my chrome work
  • Toongabbie Brake and Clutch for rebuilding my booster and helping out on brake setup
  • Mazda Parts Parramatta and Central Coast Mazda (Dave, Darrin) for helping me out with HEAPS of requests of parts and ordering on short notice
If anyone wants any of these contacts gimme yell, I highly recommend any of these peoples to help you out with your re-build.

Other of note (with HEAPS of rotor knowledge) are people like Dave Morris (DMRH), Lance Warren (3rotor.com, BAD20B & 3ROTOR cosmo fame), Mark Winter, Old man Marc, Stevie B, Daniel Orsine, Kane, Mikey, Wazza (NZ), Johnny K and the list goes on.

And all my other mates that have done even the slightest to help, the car wouldn't be where it is without any of them.

To every aspiring car builder; the biggest lessons I have learnt during the build of GOD.12A has been:

  • Listen to as many ideas as possible then pick the best solution for what your need are. Every engine builder . owner / professional has their own thoughts on what they think is best.
  • Always ring around for the best prices. 22 cents on a phone call can save you hundreds!
  • You usually get what you pay for so you shouldn't try and skimp on things that don't get the spot light like brakes, injection, computers, cooling components etc. After all, why trust a 2nd rate injection computer on a top quality motor?
I hope this helped someone out who is contemplating undergoing a full rebuild. If anyone has any questions please email me on the above address or come find me on the forums under GOD.12A.

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